Story: Afternoon trip to Bogolyubovo

Many tours of Russia’s famed Golden Ring cities bring tourists to Vladimir and Suzdal, the largest of the Golden Ring cities in the Vladimir Region; however, these tours tend to neglect the smaller towns of the area. If you find yourself in the Vladimir Region, the tiny town of Bogolyubovo located just to the east of Vladimir should not be overlooked. From the center of Vladimir, take Bus #152 east for about half an hour until you see a very large cathedral on the right side of the road. You can't miss it. Once you're in Bogolyubovo, you'll want to see the Bogolyubsky Monastyr and the Church of the Intercesion on the Nerl.

The town of Bogolyubovo was originally founded as a fortress by Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky in the 12th century. He was murdered there in 1174, after which his fortress was sacked and destroyed. The Bogolyubsky Monastyr (monastyr translates to both monastery and convent in Russian) was built in the 13th century on the grounds of Bogolyubsky’s former fortress. The Bogolyuvsky Monastyr is a white stone cathedral topped with bright blue domes located right next to the road. A tip for female visitors to the monastery: While anyone may enter the grounds, women who are interested in entering the churches need to have something to cover their heads (and shoulders if needed), and they must wear either a skirt or a dress. I was unable to enter any of the churches on the monastery grounds as I was inappropriately dressed.

A short walk from the Bogolyubsky Monastyr is a simple yet elegant cathedral called the Church of the Intercession of the Nerl, which was commissioned by Andrei Bogolyubsky in 1165. You can see this church in the distance from behind the monastery; simply follow the road and paths which lead in its direction. The paths will take you across the railroad tracks, through a small forest and across a wide field before bringing you to your destination. (At the edge of the forest, local women sell lovely handmade woolen shawls at an excellent price!)

As the name suggests, the Church of the Intercession of the Nerl used to be located on the banks of the River Nerl, although the river has changed course and all but dried up over the years. There is still a small lake in front of the church, and during incredibly rainy periods, the area becomes almost river-like. When I visited during the warm summer months, locals were enjoying themselves swimming in the lake and picnicking in the flower-filled fields surrounding the church.

A visit to Bogolyubovo makes for an excellent afternoon outing from Vladimir on any clear day!