The Turquoise Coast of Mediterranean Turkey provides a scenic backdrop to the exploration of ancient history, the excitement of a modern country with a rich heritage, along with the enjoyment of cruising in a small boat.
The Turkish people are very proud of their young republic, founded by Kemal Ataturk. The Turkish flag was flown from every town square and from most public and private buildings.
Blue in all its shades is the predominate color along the Turquoise Coast of Turkey. Sometimes dramatic cliffs covered in dark green pine trees fill the vision, and, in early morning or as the day ends, the entire spectrum can blossom forth. But in the daytime, the azure sky and turquoise waters whisper together and share their blue secrets. Even the dramatic backdrop of the snow-capped Taurus Mountains fades to blue in the summer heat.
I planned to jump full force into the turquoise and azure world of Turkey's Mediterranean coast as we stepped onto the deck of our chartered yacht, the gulet Sadri Usta. However, I felt some nostalgia as I boarded. My concern was not about the boat, a handsome, well-crafted mahogany motor and sail boat. My wistfulness was caused by my fear that I would be isolated from Turkish people for an entire week while we sailed.
During our ten-day land journey in Turkey I had shared morning coffee and afternoon tea, many times beckoned by local residents to accept their offer of a hot drink. Enthusiastic conversations about Turkey ensued. I had visited tomato fields with their farmers, learned about the ancient and modern spice trade with spice merchants, chatted with young weavers as they wove intricate patterns into precious silk rugs, and played basketball and soccer with eager school children who wanted to know more than I had time to share about the country I came from.
As I unpacked in the stateroom I decided to put away my concerns about cultural isolation and focus on the scenic journey ahead. The agenda called for short sails in the morning and afternoon, anchoring in precious coves, and hikes and wanderings into isolated classical Roman, Greek and even more ancient archeological sites.
Serenity Cove was our first night's anchorage, a perfectly named place for restful, gently rocking sleep. If not for the bleating of the goats on the hillside, I might have slept in and missed first coffee with the crew as the sun emerged from the misty waters. Turhan, the second mate, had recently graduated from high school and gently moved the discussion to European and world politics, discussing these topics with a sophistication that surprised me for someone so young. I mentioned Turkey's postponed, but still possible, acceptance into the European Union. As he prepared the morning breakfast table he said, "We Turks are filled with pride about Turkey's recent economic and political achievements, but we also understand the difficulties that our geographic location, religion and history create."
As we journeyed through the turquoise seascapes and hiked the pine-green hillsides, I was not isolated as I had feared. I met many coastal residents and talked with them in seaport shops and restaurants, along the trails while hiking, in local schools and villages, in boats of many sizes and shapes, in farmers' fields and even a shepherd's hut.
Suleyman, a 64 year-old Turkish shepherd told me, "The best part of life is the freedom to travel and take care of my animals. That is why life in this land is so good, we have freedom to come and go and live our lives in peace."
Osman, a high school student in his last year before college, was fishing near his coastal village. We talked about the investment in education his country had made and the prosperity it helped generate. As he told me his plans to become a doctor so his isolated village could receive better health care, he radiated optimism. He repeated a statement I had heard earlier in my travels, "Turks believe in peace through tourism. With more tourism, more people will learn that we are a peaceful, secular nation, and that we are eager to make a place for ourselves and Turkey in the world's cultural landscape."
The Turquoise Coast is filled with ancient stories of the fierce pride and independence of the peoples who lived there. That pride and independence is still evident today, but tempered with hospitality and a willingness to embrace the world beyond its blue borders.
Comments...
5 August 2008, Allen Cox said:
Brilliant photos and informative, well-written captions. What a fascinating journey! This finely crafted photo essay provides a vivid sense of place and its people.