Story: Forever Changed by the Richness of Perú

Perú is surprising in every aspect: from the culinary cuisines that make it the best of South America, to its rich Amerindian history, to the endless supply of artwork handcrafted by mother nature. Inkan culture has touched virtually every aspect of Peruvian life. In Cusco, these influences are amplified. Every ounce of your senses will feel their world… the sounds of their language, Quechua, can be heard on any corner, any venue, any street; the brilliant colors of their clothes and textiles are as diverse as the different tribes; the smells and taste of their foods from Huatia (mud cooked potatoes) to Cuy (guinea pig) delight and enlighten your taste-buds; and the stories and masterpieces of architecture -an incredible convergence of engineering, spirit and human strength- are found everywhere in the form of amazing ruins.

This is my first time in Cusco, yet there is an undeniable and unique familiarity in everything… the sunrise, the skyline, the people: local and foreign… It is as if I had been here before and have always known this place, whether that be in a dream or in spirit, it does not matter for I feel completely at home and welcomed in this former capital of the mighty Inkas. Cusco is nestled 10,800 feet above sea level. The air is thin. The dust, dirt and pollution are quick to test the limits of your lungs. Deep breaths are difficult to take, but necessary to help absorb everything this great country has to offer.

EXPLORING…
Perú is a beautiful country dominated by the great Andes Mountains. A trip exploring the vast mountain towns and villages is to learn the incredible history of its extraordinary inhabitants. Mother Nature crafted among her best artwork here in the valleys of the Andes. This enabled the Inkas to masterfully build amazing structures, including Machu Picchu.

My adventure to the “lost city of the Inkas” was shared with friends from my host family. An intense 4 day trek by foot, carrying heavy packs through the jungles, mountains and valleys to Machu Picchu is a great feat that everyone must experience themselves. All of the blood, sweat and even the monkey “attack” was worth it. To be in the midst of nature: breath-taking views of rivers and mountains, stars brighter and bigger than you could ever have imagined and a pureness of the beauty that surrounds you every step you take, leave you in a complete state of awe. When we finally reached Machu Picchu, the feelings were so immense, almost indescribable. The early morning’s sun had unveiled the magic all around us, reviving and renewing energy in the once breathless, exhausted and tired trekkers. All I could think was, “wow”, but no words escaped my lips. This place: the sun, the light, the mountains, everything was just overwhelming. Silence and admiration was our common bond that moment as we absorbed all that our senses could take in.

On the border of Perú & Bolivia lies South America’s largest lake, Lago Titicaca. It sits 12,507 feet above sea level. In the midst of winter’s freezing cold we visited the floating reed island of Urcos and the Quechuan dominated island of Amantaní. No electricity equates to no heat but also to an endless sky of brilliant stars and moonlight. There exists a fervent loyalty to old traditions and ways of life that makes this island so unique and alluring. Beauty is all around… amazing sunsets, ice blue waters, temples built at the tops of the peaks, the people - beautiful in their simplicity. This trip was among my favorites ever and unlike any other. A visit here is memorable: inimitable and unforgettable.

A deep respect for nature is a Peruvian truth. Two events that best embody this profound esteem for the earth are “Inti Raymi” and “Pago a la Tierra”. “Inti Raymi” is Quechuan for “Festival of the Sun”, and was the most important ceremony of the Inkan Empire of Cusco. Thousands from all over come to witness this festival. It begins with an invocation by the Sapa Inka in the Qorikancha, which was built over the ancient Temple of the Sun. Here, the Sapa Inka calls on the blessings from the sun before they begin a procession to the sacred alter of Sacsayhuanmán. Dances, prayers, native wear, music, props and hundreds of children, men and women participate in the procession on the flower-bedecked streets.

At Sacsayhuamán, HUGE crowds await the arrival of the procession, my group of friends and I included. The most amazing and craziest part of the day was watching the procession arrive to the top of the hills of Sacsayhuamán on the cloudy day. The clouds actually PARTED as they arrived and sunlight lit their path down to the alter where the sun continued to shine down on just the alter and no where else!

“Pago a la Tierra” is the Andean New Year. Peruvians make payments to the Pachamama (Mother Earth). Payments are offerings to Mother Earth: coca leaves, sweets, incense, dried fetuses of animals and even wine. The ceremony is held in Moray where the Inkans have built incredible circular terraces. Curves and circles represent femininity and on this day, the Pachamama. Andean Inkans march out proudly waving the Cusqenian flag (which honors the rainbow). Each level of the circular terrace has Inkans donning different colors, representing the array of colors of nature. In the center, the priests give and burn the offerings to the Pachamama. Music and dancing are coordinated to the magnificent rhythm of the ceremony. The backdrop of Moray… rolling hills, Andean mountains, luscious green valleys… all add to the splendor of the day.

VOLUNTEERING…
Modern and traditional lives clash on these stone streets hidden in the Andes mountains. Almost half of the nation is considered poor, making less than the average $7 dollars a day for their back breaking manual labor. Almost 100% of the people living in the mountains are among these poor. In the mountains is where I work. Huchuy Yachaq is an NGO (Nonprofit Governmental Organization) that provides a community center to Cusco’s poorest community, Los Hermanos Ayer. Most of the parents work very long, hard hours, yet earn very little: less than $4 per day. A majority of the children start working on the streets at a very young age: usually cleaning shoes, washing cars or selling postcards. Most homes do not have electricity nor running water. The very few that do, just recently had it installed within the last year. This includes Huchuy Yachaq.

The physical transformation of this place in my ~3 months has been absolutely amazing. To get here, I take a 35 minute ride on a cambi (overcrowded public van that functions as a bus) from home to the neighboring mountain. I then get out at the curb and hike down through the small, dirty trash-filled valley, climb up the side of this mountain (initially using vegetation to pull myself up) and eventually to the dirt path that takes me to the top to Huchuy Yachaq. The hike can take anywhere between 25 to 45 minutes, depending on what I am carrying. Often I have gallons of paint, thinner, spackle or the like with me, and that slows me down - as if the altitude and thin air weren’t enough. My job here is to change the inside by painting murals on the walls of the main room. The walls are brown with a hint of blue/yellow from years past, layers of dirt cover them as the children trek in the dirt from the floors. But before I can paint the mural, I first have to spend two weeks cleaning, fixing and prepping the worn walls. Needless to say, I am filthy by the time I return home each day.

As the weeks passed by, the paintings slowing come to fruition, bringing color and brightness to the once dark, dull room. Painting is always a challenge as the children like to touch the wet paint and then drag their fingers and hands across already painted dry areas, despite my stern “No tocas!”. Each day I spend about 15mins to an hour fixing their new, unwelcomed additions. As more color was put on the walls, more improvements were made to the center: cement floors, real steps outside, better running water, even a working toilets instead of an outhouse and finally, electricity. Donations and years of work transformed this once backwards house into a real community center. And I saw this transformation with my own eyes.

This place is a refuge for many. Huchy Yachaq works to reduce the prevalent violence within the family and to minimize the amount of time children spend on the streets working. Life is very challenging for these people and often, the parents are alcoholics, abusing their children and each other; neglect is everywhere and the children struggle to survive the basic day-to-day. Huchuy Yachaq has a full time psychologist on staff to offer advice, counseling and support in resolving family conflicts. The degree of violent family dynamics is, unfortunately, too common a story and accepted as daily life here in Hermanos Ayer.

Through counseling, advice and education, the children have more hope for a better life; they now know that it is possible. “Huchuy Yachaq” is Quecha for “little learner”. The importance of this project is incredible as the challenges the children face can be insurmountable. Of all the projects I have been involved in, this one is the one to which I am most proud. And all I did was paint the walls! Occasionally I would teach English and always, I play and talk to the children. Here, my work has meaning. The impact and value of Huchuy Yachaq is undeniable. The small staff is comprised of individuals who genuinely care for the welfare of the children, people to whom kindness and generosity is proven in their day-to-day work. They are inspiring in every way. Most of the volunteers here work to help take care of the young children or to help tutor the older ones. I’m the lone painter, but I am proud. I only wish I had more time to do more. On a few occasions, friends have come to help me paint and that has only made the experience even better.

Weekends are about exploring Perú. But sometimes, I do weekend projects, always painting, but they are full of fun with friends and are for communities or organizations who completely appreciate it.

OVERALL...

Perú was my favorite of all the places I have ever visited. Perhaps it was the awesome combination of meaningful work and quality people, local and foreign. I loved the people. I met so many wonderful, astonishing individuals. Intelligence, generosity, humor and dedication were all overshadowed by their great big hearts. They are inspiring in their goodness & loving in their kindness. I am so lucky to have met them.