Story: Just around the river bend? 19 hours in a canoe

Spending a few days at an eco-lodge in the Amazon rainforest seemed like the perfect antithesis to the “hurry up and wait” trips I was used to (you know, the ones that make you feel like you need a vacation to recover from your vacation.) The lodge provided a chance to literally get away from it all: Getting there involved a 45 minute flight, followed by a two hour bus ride and concluding with a two and a half hour motorized canoe journey down the river. We all considered this odyssey a bit of a pain, but worth it to be in such a remote setting, so far removed from the trappings and demands of daily life.

Unfortunately, although we had no access to technology or news of the outside world, it was impossible to escape reality for long. As our stay drew to a close, we began to hear lodge employees whispering rumors of a strike in the region’s main city, which eventually blossomed into fact. The road we needed to take back from the river to the airport was virtually unpassable. After intense debate, our only option emerged: since the bus leg of the journey was no longer an option, we would take canoes all the way back to the airport. Then came the bombshell: Our 4.5 hour long venture in would now be a 19 hour odyssey out!

4 PM: 1 hour down, 18 to go…
The journey started out under a bright blue sky. We sailed down the river, flanked by trees on either side. Every so often, a macaw would emerge from the growth and soar overhead. We passed a community of the indigenous Siona people: women sat down by the banks, washing and pummeling clothes on flat rocks. The village shaman shouted his greetings (and perhaps his blessings) to the intrepid canoe drivers. Not much else to do but sit back and soak it all in: the endless vistas of trees so thick you could hardly see in, let alone identify what was making the hoots and shrieks emanating from within.

7 PM: 4 hours down, 15 to go…
We stopped to eat dinner, idling in the boat in a calm spot near a lake just as the sun was setting, bathing everything in a serene, molten glow.

10 PM: 7 hours down, 12 to go…
And then came the clouds. Perhaps not surprisingly, it’s called the rainforest for a reason! Everyone quickly donned their industrial strength ponchos and we motored on. I kept looking at my watch, performing mental calculations: 7 and a half hours down… Needless to say, that quickly became a moot point. There was nothing left to do but live in the moment and try and enjoy it, if at all possible.

12 AM: 9 hours down, 10 to go…
What can one do on a canoe in the middle of the Amazon? Not much. Moving around is pretty much out of the question. So is stopping at a rest stop: None of those in the rainforest. As a result, the only option for relieving oneself was to lean over the side of the boat, using the poncho as a sort of privacy shield.

2 AM: 11 hours down, 8 to go…
The moon was shining in full force, illuminating the water, which now looked almost black. There was absolutely no other sign of civilization to be seen. Since sleep was not really an option, I imagined we were intrepid explorers navigating previously uncharted territory.

5 AM: 14 hours down, 5 to go…
We pulled over at a farm so that our guide could go check on the status of the roads. The owners let us (the uninvited guests) take refuge from the rain on their porch. Their teenage son was already up and doing his homework by the light of a candle wedged in a Sprite bottle. Our guide returned; the road was still closed, so it was back to the boats.

9 AM: 18 hours down, 1 to go…
The end was near, and we were all giddy from lack of sleep and the reassuring feeling that the worst was over. Never again will I complain about a long plane or bus journey: these at least provide shelter from the elements, leg room, and greater entertainment possibilities. This experience put it all into perspective, though it wasn’ all negative. We got to experience the serenity, mystery and wonder of the Amazon rainforest from a unique and extended vantage point; the kind that involves living in the moment and immersing oneself in the surroundings. The discomfort was temporary but the memories were lasting.

For some reason, the lyrics from Disney’s Pocahontas movie kept running through my head: “Just around the river bend…” Maybe we would be there just around this next river bend. Or this one? Or this one….wait! There, shining like a beacon, was the bus. We had made it! 19 hours down, none to go!