Story: The Best Of The Rock

When we think of Canada’s most exciting tourist attractions, places such as lively Montreal, Ontario’s thunderous Niagara Falls, and the mighty Rockies, typically come to mind. We frequently overlook relatively “tamer” places such as our easternmost province of Newfoundland & Labrador. Our recent whirlwind tour of “The Rock” helped us realize that you don’t have to offer the biggest, boldest, or most colorful attractions to appeal to visitors: sometimes a simple, back-to-basics approach to life as it was decades ago can be equally enchanting and irresistible.

Our trip to Newfoundland lasted a relatively short nine days, starting and ending in St John’s. After a few days in the provincial capital (and surrounding Avalon Peninsula), we drove a tiring seven hours to the western end of the province to spend a few days in Gros Morne National Park, the area’s crowning glory. We then headed back east, with stops in central Newfoundland and the Bonavista Peninsula along the way.

The main suggestion I have for those considering a trip here is to realize just how large a province this is, compared to the rest of Atlantic Canada. At over 111,000 square kilometers, the island of Newfoundland alone is almost the same size as the other three Maritime provinces combined. Add in the territory of Labrador, which is almost three times the size of Newfoundland, and you’ve got a total land base of over 400,000 square kilometers. Hence a week long visit to “The Rock” should ideally be confined to one part of the province, whether it be western, eastern, or central Newfoundland.

Nonetheless, our short visit to Newfoundland’s many villages and towns did give us a taste for what this charming province is all about. Based on our experiences, I have compiled a list of the top five reasons why ‘The Rock’ is a must-see on any visitor’s list.

ITS AMAZING NATURAL VISTAS

With over 29,000 kilometers of coastline (enough to stretch across the continent four times), this province offers breathtaking land- and sea-scapes at every turn. Largely untouched and unspoiled, much of this rugged land, particularly that on the western end of the province, is believed to date back an estimated 1.25 billion years.

One of the highlights of any trip to the western region is Gros Morne, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The second largest national park in Atlantic Canada, Gros Morne offers over 100 kilometers of hiking trails of varying difficulty and length, from half-hour strolls to multi-day backcountry hikes. Two of the most popular daytripper activities are the Western Brook Pond boat tour and the Tablelands Trail hike. The former is a huge glacier-carved inland fjord 16 kilometers in length, surrounded by Precambrian cliffs 600 meters tall. The boat tour that takes you on a 2-1/2 hour narrated cruise around the fjord is a 3-kilometer (45 minute) hike from the parking lot. Boat tours run at 10 AM, 1 PM, and 4 PM in July and August, and at 1 PM only in June, September and October. More information is available at www.bontours.ca or by calling 1-800-563-9887.

For a completely different terrain, visit the Tablelands, a mountain of underground rock pushed to the Earth’s surface by tectonic forces 500 million years ago. To get the most out of the 4-kilometer (return) hiking trail, join a scheduled interpreter-guided walk. Weather conditions here and elsewhere in the park can change quickly, so always bring clothing and gear for possible inclement conditions.

Unlike most other national parks, Gros Morne also features many little quaint towns and villages located near or within park boundaries that provide all the usual services as well as a variety of accommodations. For more information, check out www.pc.gc.ca/grosmorne and request a free copy of the Tuckamore visitor’s guide.

Mother Nature’s other awe-inspiring spectacle for which Newfoundland is famous is the iceberg. Every spring, thousands of “bergs” are calved from the 10,000 year-old glaciers of western Greenland. These are propelled by wind and tide past Baffin Island and down the Newfoundland coast along what has been nicknamed “Iceberg Alley”. They are a common sighting here from March to July, and sometimes even into early August. Central Newfoundland’s northerly Twillingate Island (the self-proclaimed Iceberg Capital of the World) is known for the numerous icebergs that can be seen just offshore (and sometimes in its harbor) in the summer months. If you are lucky enough to be in town when these white and blue towers of ice are visible, take a kayak or boating expedition for a closer look. Keep in mind, of course, that bergs can break up or flip over at any time, so don’t venture too close.

ITS SPECTACULAR WILDLIFE

The province is teeming with wildlife: in the air, on land, and in the sea. An estimated 35 million seabirds (of 350 different species) gather here each year to hunt for food and to nest. Birders and non-birders alike should make the drive to Cape St Mary’s Ecological Reserve (www.env.gov.nl.ca/parks/wer/r_csme/; tel: 709-277-1666), one of six seabird ecology reserves protected by the provincial parks system. Cape St Mary’s is a protected breeding ground for northern gannets, razorbills, and black-legged kittiwakes, and is best known for Bird Rock, a 100-metre tall sea stack carpeted with thousands of its feathered inhabitants.

Also located on the Avalon Peninsula, an hour from St John’s, is the equally popular Witless Bay Ecological Reserve (tel: 709-635-4520; www.env.gov.nl.ca/parks/wer/r_wbe/). Home to the brightly-beaked, short-winged Atlantic Puffin, this reserve is occupied by some 260,000 of the province’s official bird. Because the actual reserve is offshore, access is via licensed tour boat from the nearby villages of Bay Bulls and Bauline East. Tours usually run from May to September and typically last 2-3 hours. Two of the most popular tour operators are O’Brien’s (tel: 877-639-4253; www.obriensboattours.com) and Gatherall’s (tel: 709-334-2887; www.gatheralls.com).

In addition to seabirds, you might be fortunate enough to run across some whales while in Witless Bay. Newfoundland’s waters are home to 22 species of whales, with the tiny minkes and the mammoth humpbacks being the most common. Between the months of April and October, some 10,000 humpbacks swim close to shore, especially in the waters around the Avalon and Bonavista Peninsulas. If you watch patiently from shore (even without binoculars), you can often spot a humpback by its spout or its tail breaching the water’s surface. If you want to get up close and personal, go with an experienced sea kayak tour operator. You may be one of the lucky few to dip your paddle mere meters from curious humpbacks.

With over 150,000 moose (the highest concentration in North America), the world’s largest caribou herd (numbering over 500,000 in Labrador), and the continent’s largest black bears (weighing over 650 pounds), Newfoundland is as popular with lovers of wildlife as it is with hunters. The highest population of moose in the province is in the western region, particularly that portion north of Gros Morne. Locals warned us time and again to avoid driving at dawn and at dusk, when these 500 kg members of the deer family are often found near main roads foraging for food. Each year, several hundred moose-motor vehicle accidents occur, often resulting in serious injury and even fatalities. We were fortunate enough to spot several moose while in Gros Morne. Avoid approaching them too closely, particularly when their young calves are around.

ITS PICTURESQUE VILLAGES

One of our most enjoyable activities during our visit was exploring the province’s many charming and picturesque coastal communities. Mere minutes from downtown St John’s, our first such stop was the historic village of Quidi Vidi. The site of the annual Royal St John’s Regatta (North America’s oldest continuous sporting event), this tiny working fishing village is also home to the Quidi Vidi Brewery (which makes Newfoundland’s only local beer), the Battery (constructed in 1762 to prevent enemy ships from landing soldiers for an assault on St John’s), and the continent’s oldest cottage (which now houses an antique store).

If you’ve made it this far, drive another 10 minutes to the nearby scenic town of Petty Harbour. First settled in the 1600s, this vibrant fishing village has been used as a backdrop for features films such as “Orca” and “Rare Birds.” Further south on the eastern coast of the Avalon Peninsula you’ll find the town of Ferryland (tel: 877-326-5669; www.heritage.nf.ca/avalon), one of North America’s oldest communities. At the heart of this town are the remains of the original 17th century settlement known as the Colony of Avalon. This living archeological dig (in which over a million artifacts have been uncovered) also sports a modern interpretive center in addition to the actual dig site. A 1-1/2 hour-guided tour of the dig site will show you one of the continent’s oldest cobblestone streets as well as the world’s first sea-flushed outdoor toilet.

On the Bonavista Peninsula, you’ll find the twin communities of Bonavista and Trinity. Bonavista is where Italian explorer John Cabot is believed to have first touched North American soil in 1497. It features approximately 1,000 heritage buildings dating from the early 1800s to 1949 (more than any other town in Newfoundland), the Matthew (a replica of John Cabot’s 19-meter-long, three-masted, wooden caravel), the restored 9-meter-tall Cape Bonavista Lighthouse, and the 300-year-old Mockbeggar Plantation (the oldest fishery plantation currently in existence in the province).

Spend an afternoon strolling through the dizzying network of quaint laneways connecting Bonavista’s downtown core with the surrounding residential areas. Follow hiking trails that take you to the water’s edge and to deserted beaches. And don’t forget to drive to nearby Elliston. This former fishing settlement, the self-proclaimed “Root Cellar Capital of the World”, is home to 134 man-made, frost-free, in-ground vegetable-storage sheds (some of which are still in use).

Forty-five minutes from Bonavista is Trinity, the former bustling mercantile village which has reinvented itself as a ‘period piece.’ It is now famous for its historically accurate architectural restorations, from the beautifully authentic fishing stages to the salt-box homes with their white picket fences and vertical slider windows. Pick up a map from the Trinity Interpretation Centre (tel: 709-729-0592) listing the museums, art galleries, and restored 18th century buildings. If you’re here between June and October, don’t miss a performance of the Rising Tide Company (tel: 888-464-3377; www.risingtidetheatre.com), a professional theatre company that uses the outdoor seaside venue and the town’s historic buildings as its backdrop. Movie buffs will know that “The Shipping News”, with actors Kevin Spacey and Dame Judy Dench, was filmed in Trinity’s picturesque harbor.

ITS HISTORIC LIGHTHOUSES

You’ll no doubt come across several lighthouses during your visit to Newfoundland. They have been in existence since 1813, when the first was built at the entrance to St John’s Harbor. Most of the province’s 55 major lightstations are now fully automated, but their legacy lives on thanks to the efforts of volunteers. Many are open to the public, some with exhibits detailing their history, others (such as the Bonavista Lighthouse) featuring costumed interpreters reenacting the lives of early lightstation keepers.

Fifteen minutes south of St John’s is Cape Spear, North America’s most easterly point. It was here in 1835 that Newfoundland’s second lighthouse was built. The original lighthouse is now the centrepiece of the Cape Spear National Historic Site, and gives you a glimpse into life at this remote outpost in the mid-19th century. The site is surrounded by spectacular views of the powerful North Atlantic, and humpbacks and icebergs can be seen in season from the shore.

Some lighthouses have been made even more appealing to the public, such as the Ferryland Lighthouse, where you can order a gourmet picnic lunch (complete with blanket) to enjoy outdoors. A popular selection (and my personal favorite) is the fresh lemonade, curried chicken with mango & cashews, and strawberry shortcake. Children’s picnic meals are also available. They are open Tuesday to Sunday from summer to fall, 1130 AM - 600 PM. To pre-book a picnic, call 709-363-7456 or visit www.lighthousepicnics.ca.

For a unique and authentic lightkeeper experience, consider the lighthouse on the deserted Quirpon Island (located 30 minutes off the northernmost tip of Newfoundland), where you can stay overnight at the 1922 lighthouse keeper’s residence. Here you are truly isolated, with only the crashing waves of the North Atlantic to keep you entertained. Access is via boat launch or helicopter. For more information about this quintessential lighthouse experience, call 709-634-2285 or visit www.linkumtours.com.

ITS CHARMING PEOPLE

Last but certainly not least, Newfoundland is renowned for its amazingly friendly and hospitable residents. The best example of this was the generosity shown by Gander residents to passengers stranded following the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001. Thanks to the collective efforts of church groups, local organizations, and many selfless individuals, this community of 10,000 (as well as some neighboring towns) opened its homes and doors to 7,000 complete strangers.

However, this generosity of spirit is not limited to such exigent circumstances as 9/11; it is the way Newfoundlanders seem to behave all the time. While the other Maritime provinces have a well-deserved reputation for their friendliness and welcoming nature, we found these qualities to be even more exaggerated in Newfoundland. Perhaps the hardships and geographic remoteness they’ve had to endure have resulted in their unwavering sense of community and openness. However, they seem to greet strangers with as much warmth as they do close friends and family. During our time in Newfoundland, we were invited into a stranger’s home for coffee, onto a local’s boat for a ride to nearby islands, and were even given a 2-hour tour of a retiree’s fishing stage – all in exchange for absolutely nothing. If this isn’t enough to convince you to visit “The Rock”, I don’t know what more it would take.