How To: Wash, Rinse, Repeat; Dubrovnik, Croatia

As Oprah browses villas and the Gates’ set sail off its shores, Dubrovnik keeps it real (…and gorgeous) for regular folk, too.

From the airport, our taxi drives along the steep, rugged ridges of the Dinaric cliffs. As we traverse the last bend, Dubrovnik lays before us. Crystalline azure seas hug the hamlet’s coast as the sun bounces across tangerine-colored, terracotta roofs. It was as if the skies had opened and a symphony boomed from the clouds, serenading us all the way to Pile Gate.

Pile Gate is one of three entrances into Dubrovnik’s “old city” or Stari Grad. Passengers from ferries, buses and taxis are deposited at this bustling entryway, as they head by foot into the pedestrian-only city and venture within its century-old walls.

Inside the walls, there are only two hotels in Stari Grad; the Pucic Palace (www.pucicpalace.com) and Stari Grad Hotel (www.hotelstarigrad.com) ranging from 88 to 227 Euros per night. But for much less money, visitors can consider a sobe, a private room in someone’s house advertised throughout the city. Tourists are usually approached as they’re dropped off at Pile Gate and should always double check the location and price… a little haggling never hurts either.

First Thing’s First.
One of the best ways to scope the city is to take the 2km walk around Stari Grad. These walls were built in the 13th century and constitute 2000 meters of limestone, reaching 25 meters high in some places. But for the panoramic tour de force, kayak. It’s the the only way to properly view this Pearl of the Adriatic. (www.adriatic-sea-kayak.com). More than a decade ago, armed conflict seiged the region and remnants of attacks can be seen from the crumbling walls and bullet strewn buildings.

Hungry after all that rowing? This Croatian hamlet may be the mecca of the freshest seafood to brush a connoisseur’s palette. Lokanda Peskarija (Tel: +385 20 324 750) is a cushy tavern with large outdoor tables that sits in the Old Harbor. Garlic, buttery sauce douse fresh squid and octupus, while steaming hot pots of overflowing seafood risotto, stuffed with mussels pack the tables. Unlimited, crusty fresh bread enhance the meal – and make sure to top it off with a bottle of beer (pivo) or a glass of white wine…Jubilee! (Cheers!)

Walk it Off
…Stroll down the Placa, also known as the Stradun. A statue of St. Blaise, Dubrovnik’s patron saint, stands at one end while a clock tower rises at the other. In between, shops and cafes line the broad, beaming limestone pathway.

By the Pile Gate, the Franciscan Monastery holds a pharmacy and a cloister dating back to the 14th century. Adjacent to the Monastery, is the St. Saviour Church, one of the few Renaissance structures to survive a major earthquake in 1667. And for history buffs, the state archives are in the Sponza palace and contain documents from the 12th century revealing information about the political and economic relations between Dubrovnik and other European countries.

…And Be Seen…
Splurge on one of the best Croatian restaurants. Nautika (Brsalje 3, 20 000, Tel: +385 (0)20 44 25 26 ) offers superior clientele and some of the best, unobstructed views of the sea, and the Bokar and Lovrijenac fortresses. Make your stomach happy with specialty seafood dishes only found on the Dalmation Coast like sea bass with cuttlefish ink sauce, and once again, the seafood risotto.

Now Dance.
The Labirint Night Club (www.labirint-dubrovnik.com) is open all hours of the night. It’s an upscale club that features internationally renowned DJ’s throughout the summer season.

But Sometimes It’s That Unique Find…
Perhaps, the most humbling part of the Dubrovnik experience the little discoveries. In one of my photos, a view of a common household task radiates against the back drop the startlingly beautiful Dinaric Alps. A wall embraces the "old city" in Dubrovnik, where no vehicles are allowed. Only steep, etched staircases and narrow walkways help move people from place to place. I caught my breath after a ten minute climb, then aimed my lens at the "new city," where homes speckled the mountainside. But suddenly, a bird squawked by, and when I looked up...I never thought laundry could look so good...

I'm already planning my return.