Story: The Edinburgh Festival: A True Scottish Experience

Edinburgh, the cosmopolitan Scottish capital, is home to nearly 500,000 residents. In August, the city doubles in size as it plays host to the world’s largest arts festival, The Fringe. With hotels bulging to capacity, pubs open until 5AM, restaurants tables hard to come by, and almost 70 shows a day spread across 250 venues, you might find it all a little overwhelming. The following suggestions are a recipe for relaxation – places to go to avoid the crowds and join the locals for a true Scottish experience.

Tempting Tattie - 18 Jeffrey Street

Starchy foods, alongside real ales and whisky, are a staple of the Scottish diet. The Tempting Tattie serves up the king of starch – baked potatoes – with a friendly smile and a heaping pile of toppings. Two recommendations: the first is a haggis (a type of sheep sausage) and cheese. However, if that sounds a bit too heavy for you, go for the pineapple and cheese, delightfully refreshing and filling. Reservations are not necessary to pick up one of these inexpensive treats, but a hungry stomach is! A few stools are provided beside the window to watch the world go by, or you can get yours takeaway.

Dunbar’s Close Garden - Entrance is on the north side of the Royal Mile, just east of the Canongate Church

This wonderfully manicured and landscaped paradise sits at the end of Dunbar’s Close just steps from the hustle and bustle of the Royal Mile. With views of the Calton Hill and surrounding architecture, the benches spread throughout the garden are comfortable and inviting. Grab a coffee from one of the cafes nearby, pack your own picnic lunch, or pick up a takeaway and spend some quality time here in this refuge of tranquillity. Edinburgh is the first UNESCO City of Literature, so don’t forget your journal either; perhaps here you will find your muse and build upon Edinburgh’s impressive literary catalogue.

Mosque Kitchen - 50 Potterrow

This alfresco courtyard, formerly a gustatory secret for worshipers at Edinburgh’s Central Mosque, is now open to the public, serving up cheap and cheerful curries for locals and tourists alike. The only thing that beats the incredible value - £4 gets you a full 2 course meal – is the welcoming community atmosphere gathered around this unique subsection of the city. The specials change daily (depending on the chef’s mood) and are always highly recommended.

Brass Monkey - 14 Drummond Street

By peeking in the front window of this local watering hole, one could assume the Brass Monkey is simply another typical Edinburgh pub. However, this locale has a hidden secret: to the back of the bar is a large lounge-style cinema room, complete with Moroccan-themed cushions and tapestries – perfect for relaxing. A full schedule of cult classics with the occasional new release ensures the excellent selection of drinks is fully complemented. Careful on trips to/from the bar – the maze of pillows and feet can be daunting.

Maxie’s Bistro - 5b Johnston Terrace

The wonderful view overlooking the shops on Victoria Street is the first sign that you’re in the right place. Just a stone’s throw away from the lively pubs that line the Grassmarket, Maxie’s is a quiet hideaway oozing with Scottish charm. The outdoor terrace is wonderful on sunny days, but you might want to enjoy the indoor cosiness regardless of the weather. Topping all this off is an array of wonderful food (try the deep-friend brie) and an excellent wine list – you might find it hard to leave!

Water of Leith Walkway - Runs from Balerno to Leith, passing the western and northern edge of the city centre

While the views atop Arthur’s Seat cannot be beat on a clear, sunny day, the Water of Leith Walkway is a more down-to-earth view of Edinburgh’s harmonious relationship with nature and a lovely walk regardless of the weather. Try taking a bus to Roseburn Terrace – just west of the city centre past Haymarket station – and joining the path walking east. You’ll pass several mini-waterfalls (called weirs) which control the river’s flow. Steps lead to the Dean Gallery of Modern Art, if you have time, but otherwise continue to admire the wonderful architecture at Dean Village. The path rejoins the road at the neighbourhood Stockbridge, where you can end your tour with some trendy shopping and bars (try the Antiquary, complete with traditional charm and resident ghost). Otherwise continue on for a couple of miles and you will reach Leith, Edinburgh’s port district. The path conveniently ends in the area know as The Shore, which is full of pubs and restaurants (try the Malt and Hops), the perfect ending of an afternoon’s walk.