Story: Off the Beaten Path in Samoa

Looking to take the road less traveled in the South Pacific? Western Samoa has only one major road - and not a lot of people travel it. Modern resorts with golf courses are springing up near the capital of Apia, but it doesn't take much to experience Samoa away from the tourist hordes: Ferries, cabs and local buses provide easy access to every corner of the country. I set about circumnavigating the main islands of Upolu and Savai'i, and ended up finding secluded islands, pristine beaches and gorgeous waterfalls - not to mention a few highly potent cocktails.

Disconnected Island
Namua Island

Just off the coast of Upolu lies this dot of a South Pacific island. It has no power or running water, and it's a refreshing antithesis to the hustle and bustle of the modern world. For activities, search the lagoon for green turtles, try your hand at climbing a coconut palm, or stroll around the perimeter of the island at low tide. But the main attraction here is that there are no attractions - just the peaceful lapping of waves and the swishing of coconut palms. It's the perfect spot to slow down your internal clock before embarking on your exploration of the other Samoan islands.

Beach Life
Lalomanu Beach

Pristine Lalomanu takes the crown as the prettiest beach in Western Samoa. With white, powdery sand, an expansive lagoon and open fales (traditional Samoan bungalows) dotted along the beach, you'll want to make your stay here an extended one. Most travelers seem quite content to spend the days relaxing in the shade of palm trees - perhaps with an occasional snorkeling jaunt around the local reef. But the atmosphere is transformed at dinner time, when the locals serve up a smorgasbord of delicious lobster and other tasty treats - all around a big communal table, where travel stories are swapped until late at night.

Treetop Climb
Falealupo Rainforest Reserve

For something a little bit different, catch a cab to the Falealupo Rainforest Reserve in the remote northwestern corner of Savai'i. For a small fee, the locals will take you up to their surprisingly sturdy treetop walkway, which offers great views of the rainforest canopy. A vertigo-inducing suspension bridge leads to an ancient banyan tree, where you descend several steep flights of stairs back down to ground level. If you ask the villagers nicely - and perhaps offer a small contribution to the local economy - you may be allowed to stay the night on a tiny platform in the banyan tree. But be warned: The platform is a good 100ft up, and there is nothing to protect you from the elements, should a tropical rainstorm roll in during the night.

Crystal Pool
Afu A'au Falls

Waterfalls are everywhere in Samoa, but secluded Afu A'au Falls on Savai'i has to be the top pick. To get there, you need to pay a fee to the locals, follow a small dirt track through a coconut plantation, then descend a steep and gnarly bank down to a natural basin at the base of the fall. The reward? A waterfall all to yourself, in lush tropical surroundings, with a lovely freshwater pool where you can escape the blazing midday heat. It's blissfully refreshing - until you make the return journey, and once again become covered in sweat, mud and dust.

Tropical Juice
Aggie Grey's Hotel & Bungalows

Aggie Grey's Hotel & Bungalows in central Apia has been a Samoan institution since 1933. These days, the rooms have lost some of their sheen - and the facilities are pretty average by modern standards. But the place still oozes history, and the hotel puts on a fantastic island night every Wednesday. The highlight, though, is the poolside bar, where hapless hotel staff mix cocktails from recipes that list ingredients, but not the appropriate quantities. The resulting concoctions are explosively strong, and make for some exceptionally good times in the tropical sun.