Story: Off the Beaten Path

sally sloley

By sally sloley
Written on 12 May 2008
88 views

A different kind of winery experience.

Barrel

Barrel

A barrel in front of the Blackwood Canyon tasting room.

Off-the-beaten-path not only describes the location of Blackwood Canyon Winery, it also describes the owner's philosophy and style of winemaking. The winery is situated on Red Mountain and it's more than just a pretty location, it's also the AVA (American Viticultural Area) producing grapes that are ending up in some of the finest wine in Washington State. You head down a rather long dirt road between rows of grapes in Mike's vineyards. When you arrive, you'll likely be greeted by a weimeraner. The latest is Gracie and all his dogs have been sweethearts. As you enter, check out the garden out front, a lot of what's grown in it is edible.
Inside is nothing spectacular. The tasting room is bordering on run-down and you'll see lots of 1/2 empty bottles. Then you'll see Mike, whose look is a testament to the eccentricity within. He won't usually have shoes on, may not have shaved in a while...but, this guy can make really good wine. He'll tell you how he's different from the rest of the wine-making pack. He was classically trained but crafts his wines with his own unique style. He'll pair his wines with a variety of cheeses. Be brave, try them...even if you might not like them, you might be surprised like I was.
As long as you have an open mind, a willingness to try new things, and if you truly love wine, then this just might be the winery for you. The first time I visited I'd already visited several wineries and found Blackwood Canyon's wine a little too bold for me but I was intrigued enough to go back. My husband and I started the day when the winery opened and four hours later realized we hadn't ran out of things to talk about and we still hadn't tried all his wines.
There are many wineries out there that are beautiful. They combine beautiful architecture with lovely wines and you end up with a picture postcard experience. That's nice, however, it's not the only winery experience to be had, and Blackwood Canyon isn't anything like that. Personally, I like the small wineries that give the visitor something out of the ordinary to talk about. And Michael Moore, the owner and winemaker of Blackwood Canyon Vintners tops my list of people to see when I need to escape the ordinary.
I've been lots of times. For us, this is one of those all-day stops. We don't bother trying to visit other places because something fun always seems to happen on the days we go. I've seen people come in take one sip and walk out shaking their heads and complaining because they thought it was awful. But then there are those who walk in, realize they've finally found a wine that can stand up to big bold food, they learn from Mike that a little 'funk' on your wine is not a bad thing, and they end up getting barrel samples of some of wines that are 10+ years old that only a few get to try. Even more fun are the days when he decides to cook. He taught me to make the most divine steamed clams and even let me use a bottle of his wine to make them! Plus, the garden I mentioned earlier provides some very fresh herbs and veggies, and it all goes so well with a glass of Mike's wine.
Speaking of which, let's get back to his wine. Mike may have been trained at U.C. Davis but he doesn't follow the rules. He has his own way of creating wine and he doesn't compromise his beliefs. It's different because he uses old world techniques, like extended maceration and sur lie aging. Most American wineries avoid these techniques. They aren't the accepted standard and they tend to take years longer than the usual techniques. There are many who appreciate the complexity and earthiness that these variations create, and I happen to be one of them. If you want to try something new the next time you find yourself on Red Mountain this should be on your itinerary.

Other photos in this article...

Gracie Between the vines The garden Grapes

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